Force of Nature: Mind, Body, Soul, And, of Course, Surfing

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Laird Hamilton has been hailed as the world's greatest big-wave surfer. His first book, "Force of Nature," allows readers a rare glimpse inside the unique philosophy that has created his circumstances, and not the other way around. After all, this is a man whose biological father abandoned him shortly after he was born; whose first job was working on a pig far; who dropped out of school in eleventh grade. And then the career decision: surfer. Though earning enough to pay the rent as any kind of surfer is next to impossible, ...